Paulo (Portugal) story

On November 25, 2025, the following post appeared on the Facebook page Camino Latvia Talks –
“This Latvian Camino is Fantastic! And goes direct to top of my favorites ones. Words are too less to describe, but have a little of everything. First, the amazing idea to mark the Camino with birdhouses. Hundreds of them if not thousands. Nice churches and old houses, some locals interact. Amazing places to sleep (not the traditional albergues, but very good). Plenty of nature with different landscapes and changes all the time. Woodpeckers, birds, squirrel everywhere. Tables with flowers and candles in the middle of nothing. A ski station in the middle of the forest, by side a river, 30 minutes after a Zoo, 30 minutes after a Lemures park and so on. Walking in the beach, etc, etc. Stamps available in many places. Ambiance music in the bridges. Soft up and downs. So many details… Some stages are astonishing. And of course, the snow gives a special touch. Hard and great work of the Latvian Camino Association! Really great! Much love on it! Thank You! 🙏🙏💛🙏🙏”

This is how the Camino Latvia team learned that a pilgrim from Portugal – Paulo – was walking along the Latvian route.
We recently got in touch with Paulo, and he gladly sent us his story about his adventures in Latvia while walking the St. James Way.

I arrived on Camino Latvia via the Romea Strata connection from Camino Estonia. Romea Strata includes more asphalt than is typical on the Baltic Caminos, and walking it in winter naturally brings a greater chance of cold and solitude—when conditions are not even more extreme. I am aware of this reality and adapt to it.
I also do not usually gather much information in advance about Caminos. Stage distances and a basic list of possible places to sleep are generally all I carry with me. I know that many of these places will be closed, especially in winter, as it is costly to heat water and prepare accommodation for just one pilgrim. For me, this lack of information and expectation is not a limitation, but a gift. It leaves space for discovery. Surprises can happen at any moment, and they are most often kind ones.
My entry into Latvia began with a painful fall on the ice in Valga and the challenge of obtaining my first stamp in the cold of Valka. As a result, the stage to Turna was physically demanding, yet deeply rewarding: snow-covered landscapes, silence, and a very warm reception that helped me find a place to rest. The clear and thoughtful Camino markings—often accompanied by small birdhouses—and the unexpected kindness of local people in the middle of nowhere made a lasting impression. From the very first day, these encounters repeated themselves. They provided the energy needed to face the cold and continue walking with confidence and a smile.
Many churches were closed, but even so, it was meaningful to encounter them along the way. Places like Strenči, Baiļi, Valmiera—with ambient music on a pedestrian bridge—the difficulty of finding accommodation in Liepa, and the welcoming atmosphere of Cēsis, where I shared dinner with Olga and her family, became beautiful examples of the special spirit Camino can bring into our lives.
The stage from Cēsis to the small but charming town of Līgatne was truly exceptional. Friendly people, a snow-covered natural park, a stamp collected at a ski resort, followed by a zoo, a lemur park, picnic tables with candles, accessible facilities, and continuous immersion in nature—birds, forests, rivers, hills, stairways in the woods, viewpoints, and historical sites. This stage reflected everything that makes Camino Latvia unique.
Sigulda was also a pleasure to walk through, and Krimulda, with its labyrinth, was especially memorable. Another highlight was a warm and generous dinner shared with Rota, Jānis, and Toms.
These days were the most challenging of my entire journey across the three Baltic Caminos, largely due to ice-covered roads. Rural dirt roads with occasional traffic required slow and careful walking. A pleasant stage to Carnikava led to the anticipation of the following day, when I expected a long walk—approximately 10–12 km—along the sandy shore of the Baltic Sea.
I was also deeply touched by the warm welcome I received in Lutheran churches, as I had experienced in Estonia. The long approach to Riga revealed a city rich in churches, cathedrals, and impressive architecture. While the welcome at St. James’s Cathedral was less warm due to it being a paid visit, a shared dinner with fellow pilgrims Agnese and Andrew brought comfort and meaningful conversation, filled with memories of Casa Católico.
Some improvisation in Jaunmārupe, together with the generous help of another pilgrim, Zane, allowed me to find accommodation in Tīreļi. Walking in the cold is manageable, but without a warm place at the end of the day, the journey would be very difficult. Camino reminds us that we need very little—and how simple things can completely transform a day.
In Jelgava, I was welcomed into the home of a pilgrim couple. Excellent food, Riga Black Balsam, and shared stories of Caminos walked in different directions created one of those moments that always feel too short. Discovering many Portuguese objects in their home was unexpectedly comforting. I remain deeply grateful to Natalya and Andrew.
The stage to Tērvete was also very pleasant, once again offering accommodation in a large building, similar to Krimulda. These former sanatoriums are extremely valuable resources for pilgrims. Kindness was constant along the way. At Tērvete church, the stamp was available outside—a simple and effective solution that could work well at other points along the three Baltic Caminos. I encountered this system in Cēsis, at the ski resort, in Tērvete, and in Žagarė, Lithuania.
After crossing the border, large Camino Latvia signs marked the transition to Camino Lituano. Already at that point, I found myself missing Latvia.
All the people who have helped, continue to help, and contribute to making Camino Latvia so well organized and accessible are truly remarkable. Thank you. I wholeheartedly recommend this Camino to anyone who feels called to walk it. While summer mosquitoes can be challenging due to the water-rich lowlands, the experience is, without doubt, worth it.

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